Climbing Mont Blanc : Frequently Asked Questions

That depends on several factors – which route you are on, how fit you are, the snow and weather conditions and how acclimatised you are.  A strong, well acclimatised team, finding good snow conditions might take only 3-4 hours from the Gouter Hut to the top.  However, ill prepared and unacclimatised teams may end up spending the night in the open.  To allow for some training, acclimatisation, and a serious summit attempt you should plan on spending at least a week in the area.

The best conditions on the mountain vary from year to year, however mid-June to mid-September is generally regarded as the Summer Season and are a good period to plan for.

If you want to do Mont Blanc on skis, then late April to mid-June can be the best time with good snow for the descent.

Mont Blanc is NOT a walk!  Usually, people who claim this have not climbed the mountain and know little about Alpinism.  Mont Blanc is a serious undertaking, requiring the skilled use of ropes, crampons and ice axes.  Anyone who considers themselves a winter walker rather than an alpinist should definitely hire a guide.  The weather can change very quickly and temperatures can plummet to -20 Celcius.  It should not be under-estimated.

Mountain Guides are not mandatory for Mont Blanc, but unless you are an experienced Alpinist you should consider hiring one.  Guides not only know the route, but will safeguard their clients on steep and serious ground.  The only mountain guides legally allowed to operate on the mountain are all IFMGA qualified and will be able to show you their “carnet” (license) on request. 

NB. Mont Blanc is a serious itinerary undertaken on high mountain, glaciated terrain - if you are in any doubt about your knowledge or ability in this type of environment - HIRE A MOUNTAIN GUIDE

In the event of an accident (crevasse fall, a slip, frostbite or altitude sickness) you should first try self help.  Self sufficiency in the Alpine mountains is very much encouraged and you should not phone for rescue unless it is really necessary.  If you do need rescue you should dial 112 stating the route you are on, the altitude you are at, and the wind speed and direction.  Helicopters can land at all altitudes on Mont Blanc, but bad weather can prevent them from flying.

There are three main routes to the summit of Mont Blanc; via the Gouter Hut, Cosmiques Hut and the Gonella Hut.

The Gouter Hut is the highest refuge on the mountain at 3800m.  It also has the quickest route to the summit (3-5 hours).  However you should be aware that getting to the Gouter Hut itself is not easy.  From the top of the Tramway du Mont Blanc train tracks at Nid Aigle it takes approximately 5 hours to reach the hut.  This climb involves crossing the notorious “Grande Couloir” – a steep gully that is often raked by rockfall, and also serious scrambling on rock and snow to reach the hut.

The route from the Cosmiques Hut (3600m) allows a traverse of the mountain to be made.  The journey to the summit takes an average of 7 hours, and covers a long distance, crossing over the shoulders of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit before reaching the summit ridge.  This route should not be attempted after heavy snow due to the risk of avalanche on Mont Blanc du Tacul.  Perhaps the main advantage of this route is that the hut can be reached in just 30 minutes from the Aiguille du Midi telepherique !

The Gonella Route (aka Pope route) is the longest of all the “standard routes”, with no trains or lifts to aid the ascent.  The route begins in Italy and involves a long (6 hour) walk to the Gonella Hut, before a long summit day (8 hours) involving 1700m of ascent.

There are literally hundreds of routes up Mont Blanc.  Of the three most popular routes the Cosmiques is probably the most serious.  Some of the most technical routes take several days to complete and involve very hard rock and ice climbing.

At 4810m there is approximately 30% less oxygen per breath than at sea level.  That means that if you are unacclimatised, your body will struggle to cope and serious sickness may result.  Acclimatisation not only reduces the chance of sickness, but allows you to travel much faster and enjoy the ascent much more.

What are the symptoms of Altitude Sickness?
In mild AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), the main symptoms are headaches and nausea.  Vomiting is a more serious indicator that you are not acclimatised.  In the event of any Altitude related illness it is very important that you should not ascend any further as you are likely to become even more ill and may become completely incapacitated.   Drugs such as Diamox (Acetozolamide) should not be used as an alternative to correct acclimatisation.

The huts are a mixture of privately owned and Alpine Club huts.  However, they all operate in a similar manner.  Booking the huts in advance is mandatory, and turning up without a booking is seriously frowned upon.  If you do this the huts are under no obligation to give you shelter and may turn you away.  The more popular huts may be booked months in advance and you should always phone a few days ahead just to re-confirm your booking.

Once in a hut, you will be allocated a bunk and given blankets for the night.  You will then be told what time dinner and breakfast are.  Please remember that these huts are often catering for large numbers – you should be on time for dinner and should make the guardian aware of any special dietary requirements when you book.

No.  The mountains are there for everyone to enjoy, and there are no restrictions on age.  Anyone attempting to take children with them however should first consider the demanding physical environment they are going to.

You will need the following as a minimum:

• Clothing.  Warm clothing, including thermals, jumper, jacket and over-trousers (preferably water-proof material such as gore-tex). 
• Several pairs of gloves (different thickness), mitts, warm hat. Spare extra warm jacket (down or similar).
• Boots.  Sturdy mountain boots eg La Sportiva Nepal Extreme or similar.
• Hardwear.  Crampons, Ice axe, helmet and harness.  Karabiners, prussiks. 
• Rope.  Usually 30m of 9mm full rope will suffice.
• Others.  Headtorch, insulated water bottle/flask, snack food, camera

Most of the hardwear can be hired from almost any outdoor shop in Chamonix.  Ropes and clothing will need to be purchased.

First of all, decide if you want to do it with a guide.  Basically, if you have any doubt about your knowledge and ability of climbing in High Mountain, glaciated terrain then book a guide!  Book well in advance as the summer season fills up very early. If booking through a guide, they should make all the necessary arrangements for you.

If not climbing with a guide, your first priority is to Book your Mountain Huts for your summit attempt.  These usually open in mid-April for the ski touring season and can be booked then.  Your next priority is to plan your itinerary for acclimatisation and book those huts too.  Then look at arranging Flights and Transfers to Chamonix and Accommodation in the area.

Once here, don’t forget to call into the Office de la Haute Montagne, beside the church, before setting out.  They have local experts available all year round to offer advice and information (in English) on the latest conditions and weather predictions for your chosen route.  

“Good luck –I hope to see you on the summit !”  Stuart Macdonald, Mountain Guide

This article is courtesy of Stuart Macdonald, a fully qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide based in Chamonix Mont Blanc.

Stuart first came to Chamonix & climbed Mont Blanc with a group of school friends aged 17 where he immediately fell in love with the Alps & since then has climbed all around the world. In 2003 he decided to give up his military career & begin training as a professional Mountain Guide. Since then he has never looked back - "The mountains are my passion, my life & my home".

Now, with over 15 years experience in mountaineering, Stuart is an expert in rock climbing, ice climbing, alpine mountaineering & off-piste skiing/ski touring as well as being an Everest summiteer. Whatever your dream, he would like to share his passion for the mountains with you. Let Stuart guide you around Chamonix & the Mont Blanc region for the ultimate in enjoyment & safety.