Mountaineering in Chamonix & the Mont Blanc Valley

Mountaineering in Chamonix

Chamonix is quite simply the mecca of alpine climbing. Whether you are a rock climber, ice climber, ski tourer, or just enjoy being in the mountains, Chamonix is the place to be. The glaciers and icy slopes of the Mont Blanc Massif offer a massive number of climbing routes for alpinists, while the world famous Chamonix granite is extremely popular with rock climbers.

Not only does the Mont Blanc Massif offer outstanding climbing, but the area is well prepared for climbers. The network of lifts and trains give rapid access to the high mountains, where a plethora of refuges offer fully catered accommodation. Many Mountain Guides operate in the area and are available to look after you if you need them. The valley also has an abundance of excellent gear shops, hotels, restaurants and bars enabling you not only to climb your dreams and relax afterwards.

History of Mountaineering in Chamonix

The earliest recorded forays into the mountains above Chamonix were by Crystal hunters. For most other people there was really no point – few people had any leisure time ! But the Victorian Age was an age of invention and exploration. People wanted those remote places explored and mapped, and the mountains were no exception.

In 1760, Horace Benedict de Saussure from Geneva offers a reward for any man who can stand on the summit of Mont Blanc. There were several unsuccessful attempts in the ten years that followed, but each time the parties were unwilling to stay out overnight believing that it was impossible to survive a night in the snow.

Then in June 1786, a team set off hoping to make the top. They turned back when the sky clouded over, but one of the group, a young crystal hunter, was left behind. Jaques Balmat had left the group to look for crystals in some rocks, and when he returned the group had gone. Alone at 4,000m he started to descend on his own but was caught by the storm and forced to spend the night on the glacier sitting on his rucksack. The following morning he returned to Chamonix and an idea was born – you could plan to stay out overnight!

Local doctor, Michel Gabriel Paccard heard of the bivouac and decided to team up with Balmat for a summit attempt. Paccard was a skilled mountaineer, but Balmat knew the mountain well and as such they made a strong team. Paccard was keen to take a barometer to the summit and was not driven by the thought of the reward for summitting. His was a dream of science whereas Balmat’s was a dream of riches. On the 8th of August 1876 they reached the top, and Alpinism was born.

Over the following years the Golden Age of Alpinism was in full swing. At the time of the Mont Blanc Ascent all of the other peaks in the Massif (except the Midi) were unclimbed. In 1857 The Alpine Club was formed and thus became the first mountaineering club in the world. Its members included the likes of Edward Whymper who claimed a huge number of impressive first ascents, often in the company of local guide Michel Croz.

As more and more of the peaks were climbed, a new trend appeared, to climb different routes on the same peak. And so it continues……

The best time to come

For summer rock climbing and alpinism, mid June to the end of September offers the best weather and conditions.

For winter alpinists it is actually possible to climb in the massif throughout the year if you are competent enough. Ice climbers generally find that December to March are the best months to find quality ice in the valley. Good ice can be found in the high mountains any time between September and May.

Off piste skiing conditions can vary greatly, but January to March are usually best, while ski tourers generally enjoy mid February to the end of April.

Getting Started in Mountaineering

There are numerous companies and individual guides operating in the Chamonix Valley who offer courses for beginners. IFMGA guides are the only people legally able to operate in the Mont Blanc Massif, and are all of a very high standard. British guides in particular are well known for their ability to instruct well, as well as guide clients.

Mont Blanc is such a well-known route that many people arrive in Chamonix intending to "tick it off their list" without being fully aware of the knowledge and experience needed. Guides have even met people attempting to hike up in trainers with no equipment! The OHM (Office de Haute Montagne) has issued a booklet explaining the necessary precautions for attempting a trip up to the summit.

Equipment & Clothing for Mountaineering

Below is a brief list of the basics you will need for summer alpinism:

Additional equipment for basic alpinism includes:

First of all, don’t worry if you forget anything. Chamonix has some of the best gear shops in the world, and if they don’t stock it, you don’t need it! And you don’t always have to buy kit either. Many shops will rent crampons, ice axes, rock shoes and other useful gear. You’ll usually have to leave a deposit (credit card swipe or passport), but the gear is usually high quality and it’s often far cheaper than buying.

In Chamonix itself the best outdoor shop is Snell Sports on Rue Dr Paccard. They stock all the latest gear, and carry a huge selection for you to choose from. They also have an excellent range of guidebooks, in various languages, covering the Alps and even farther afield. Prices are a little on the high side, so try not to get carried away with the credit card.

If you have transport you can drive out to Le Fayet and visit Quechua Sports. This is a climbers dream, as prices are very reasonable and the “own brand” gear can be ridiculously cheap. Slightly further down the road on the edge of Sallanches is Au Vieux Campeur. They also stock a good range of gear and are well priced.

The best place for maps, reference books and guides in Chamonix is Le Maison de la Presse, located directly opposite Snell Sports.

Discounts – unlike many places in the world getting discounts in shops in Chamonix is very hard. If you are a professional (Guide, Accompagnateur, etc) you may get a 10% reduction, but otherwise forget it. Producing a mountaineering club card will get you nowhere.

Packing your Equipment

A few reminders if you are travelling by plane:

• Security – The days of packing your heavy climbing gear in hand luggage are long gone! Anything sharp such as ice screws, axes or crampons must be in hold luggage. Ropes should also be stowed in the hold as should carabiners. 
• Rucksacks – Anything with loose straps, like a rucksack, will usually have to be dropped at the “Out of Gauge” baggage area. Save time by taping up loose straps before you travel.
• Weight Allowances – Many airlines have cut their baggage allowances to 20kg or less. That means you’ll have to be smart when packing. Try and get as much clothing as possible into your hand luggage. Also think about what you can do without, and whether you can buy it/rent it in Chamonix. If planning on staying in huts and hotels you can do without a sleeping bag and a towel for example. You might choose to rent boots and crampons, thus saving several kilos. Disposables such as camera film, suncream and shower gel can all be bought in Chamonix, so why waste your baggage allowance bringing them from home?

Climbing Areas in Chamonix

Aiguilles Rouges – A good area of mid height mountains where you can enjoy everything from bolted sports climbing to rocky ridge traverses. An ideal venue if you’re not acclimatised, and the Brevent/Flegere lift system ensures you can easily complete routes here and return to the valley on the same day.

Valley Cragging – See the Chamonix cragging guidebook and the Vallee D’Arve Guidebook for all the info on valley cragging. Nearly all the valley crags are “sport crags” that are equipped with bolts so you’ll usually just need a selection of quickdraws and a rope

Massif du Mont Blanc – The alpinists playground ! Over 10,000 routes are available to climb here, at all grades, on rock, snow, ice and mixed ground. You can gain access to this area via the Aiguille du Midi cable car, Montenvers Train, Grands Montets top cable car and the Tramway du Mont Blanc.

Route Grading

Although it’s possible to compare rock climbing grades and ice climbing grades from one country to another, it’s much more difficult to compare alpine grades.

Alpine grades take a vast amount into consideration – the length of the route, remoteness, the hardest moves on rock, the hardest moves on ice, and the overall seriousness of the climb. As a result, it’s too simple to try and make a direct comparison with grades. Instead, you should always start gently and work your way through the grades until you have a thorough understanding of them, and how your abilities are suited to them.

For a better understanding of the different rock grades you will come across, have a look at the table below (extract from Alpine Club Guide).

Grading of Routes : Alpine Climbing

Sources of Route Information

Before setting out on a route do as much research as you can. Routes change over time due to erosion, rock-fall, receding glaciers etc The following are a few sources of information:

• Local Knowledge – Ask around and speak to other climbers, they may have done the route recently and have some useful knowledge. Good places to meet fellow climbers are at the Maison des Guides and Office de Haute Montagnes (both located in the same square as the Tourist Office and church). Bars commonly frequented by gnarly mountain types are the Bistro des Sports and The Pub.
• The Office de Haute Montagne (OHM) -  Located opposite the Tourist Office in the town centre, a visit here is a must for any climbers in the area. Knowledgeable staff, maps, guide books, and a “Cahier de Course” (routes book) mean that a trip here is rarely a wasted journey.
• Local Mountain Guides - Guides will often have a good idea of whether a route will be in condition or not.
• Guide Books & Maps - Check all of them as descriptions of the same route can vary considerable from one guide to another. It’s worth checking when the guides were written to see which is likely to be the most up to date. To save carrying the book on the route, either write out the route description or get a photocopy. A decent map is indispensable, even if you think you know the area well.

Suggested Chamonix Routes

Anyone undertaking mountaineering (in any form) does so at their own risk. The decision to climb a route is yours and yours alone. Before setting out on a route you should thoroughly research the route, weather, likely conditions and be content that your experience is sufficient for the difficulty of the route. Mountaineering is a dangerous pursuit and unless you are an expert you should hire a mountain guide.

The following are not intended to be detailed route descriptions. They are merely to give the climber an overview of some routes, and to whet the appetite of the visiting Alpinist. Anyone intending to climb any of these routes should first of all read a detailed route description as contained in the recommended guide books.

Climbing Etiquette

Unfortunately the popularity of climbing in the Chamonix area now means that some routes can get extremely busy. If you find yourself in a queue or a busy part of the route just remember the following:

• Always be polite
• Try and find out which language is understood by the majority of people there in case you need to explain or discuss anything
• Guides with clients will generally (but not always) be quicker than you. It may be better to let them past to help alleviate the queue. They’ll often know the route well and may even help prevent you getting lost
• Don’t try and pass other groups unless it is safe to do so. Remember that falling off may not just injure you, but may knock other parties off too
• Try and look at the route ahead to prevent logjams wherever possible
• Extend the same courtesy to others that you would expect yourself
• Remember that parties descending will usually be quicker than those going up. It may be better to wait for a few seconds to allow a team to descend past you rather than make them wait several minutes while you climb past them

Hiring a Mountain Guide

Hiring a guide is very common on the continent, but many British people in particular shy away from this. Some feel the cost is too high and others that it is cheating. But the benefits of hiring a guide are huge:

• All guides operating in the Alps must be accredited to the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA) by law, meaning that they have had to gain a vast amount of experience and pass rigorous assessments before being qualified. The badge they wear is your guarantee of quality.
• Many guides will be happy to run an introductory course if required to teach you all the basics. Why leave things to chance when you could learn from a professional ? After all, would you try and teach yourself to drive ?
• Guides will usually be able to make a quick assessment of your abilities and choose appropriate routes for you to climb.
• They will have an intimate knowledge of the local area and know how to make the most of limited time, with the result being that you will normally get far more done than if you had been on your own.
• Guides will usually be able to give you tips and advice throughout your day to make you a better mountaineer, thus improving your safety in the future when on your own.
• If there’s a route you’d really like to climb but you don’t have the confidence to do it on your own, then a guide can solve the problem for you.

As for whether it is cheating, didn’t the great British pioneers Whymper, Walker and Mummery all hire guides?

Staying in Mountain Huts

The Mont Blanc Massif has an extensive system of huts high in the mountains. These vary from tiny bivouac huts in remote corners of the Massif to large, fully catered refuges in the popular climbing and walking areas.

Some of the huts are privately owned, but most are owned by the Club Alpin Francais (CAF), Club Alpin Italiano (CAI) and Swiss Alpine Club (SAC). If you are a member of an Alpine mountaineering Club and present your membership card you will usually receive a discount on accommodation costs when staying in club-owned huts.

In summer hut opening times vary but most are open late June to early September. Click here to find contact details and check opening times >>.

In winter some huts will open if they are in an area popular with skiers. However, even when closed huts will usually have a “Winter Room” for people to use for overnight stays. These vary from individual rooms with minimal furniture to multiple dormitories and cooking facilities. Blankets are usually provided in the winter rooms. To be safe, it is always worth taking a sleeping bag and gas stove unless you know exactly what is at the hut. A few tips for using alpine huts:

• Booking - Book as far in advance as possible. The most popular huts (Gouter, Cosmiques) are sometimes booked up months in advance. To book, simply phone the guardian using the number from the hut list (link to list of huts with phone numbers). Try not to phone first thing in the morning as the guardian will usually be sleeping after having served breakfast in the middle of the night ! Most guardians speak enough English to take a booking, but some don’t, so be prepared to Parlez Francais or Italiano !
• Arrival - Introduce yourself to the Guardian on arrival. He/she will book you in, allocate you a bed space, and tell you the meal times. They can also be a great source of route info as they are often Mountain Guides or active climbers.
• Eating – Most huts offer a half board service at a reasonable rate (approx €35-€45/night). However you can usually opt out of meals to make your stay cheaper. If doing this remember to confirm whether there is a cooking room for you to use, or you might have to sit outside in potentially bad weather to cook ! Either way you will need to take your own gas stove.
• Paying for your stay – You usually settle the bill the evening before your departure from the hut. Some huts accept credit cards, but most don’t. Always take plenty of cash.
• Facilities – Most huts are fairly comfortable, but simple. Most don’t have showers or duvets, but occasionally you can find one that does ! Expect to sleep on “Alpine Bunks” next to lots of other people, using woollen blankets to keep you warm. Some huts prefer you to bring a liner sheet to sleep in, but most don’t mind. Many huts sell essentials like batteries and sun cream in case you run out.
• Respect for others – One of the most important things in Alpine Huts is getting enough sleep before you set out on your climb. So, keep the noise down in the dormitories, leave the lights off (use your headtorch), and don’t decide to sort out your rack in the middle of the night.
• Hut slippers- All huts provide hut shoes for you to wear indoors instead of your boots. Fail to use them at your peril !
• Gear Storage - Huts normally have a gear/boot room where you leave your kit. Store it neatly and always sort your gear for your climb the night before – it can get quite chaotic in the morning.
• Drying Kit - Try and dry any damp gear/boots in the sun before it gets dark.
• Cancellation – Cancelling a booking is not a problem. Just phone the guardian (even if it’s last minute) and tell him/her. Not cancelling a booking will cause unnecessary work for the guardian and may deprive someone else of a place in the hut.

Emergency Procedures

In the event of an accident, you should first of all assess the situation. It is safe for you to help or are you putting yourself in unreasonable danger by trying to help ? Move any casualties to a safe position (if reasonable to do so), and administer First Aid. If required, call the emergency Services using the numbers below:

When you telephone, be prepared to give the following information:

Helicopter rescue around Chamonix can be exceptionally fast and the pilots are used to extracting people from highly inaccessible places. If you are involved in an accident or witness one, don’t hesitate to ring for rescue if you need one. The rescue services are professionals and are happy to be used. If someone you know is rescued they will usually be taken to the hospital (Chamonix Sud) or the heliport in Les Praz.

NB – If you phone for a helicopter, remember to make the area as safe as possible before it arrives. Loose ropes, clothing, hats etc should all be packed away. The wind from the rotors can cause these to be blown around and they can interfere with the rotors and the engine with catastrophic consequences!

If you are unfortunate enough to end up at the Chamonix Hospital for treatment, remember your European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), your insurance documents and passport. EHIC entitles you to 50% discount on treatment. In an emergency these documents should be brought to the hospital as soon as possible by a friend.

Insurance for Mountaineering

If you are going to climb in the Chamonix area, you must make sure that your insurance covers you for the activities.  Take note that most holiday insurance DOES NOT COVER ADVENTUROUS ACTIVITIES.

Insurance may be required if you have to be rescued, need medical treatment, or have to be repatriated. Different companies offer very different policies so it is worth taking the time to read the small print! Also note that even if you have insurance, it will not cover you for solo climbing or climbing unroped. Likewise if you are being guided by someone operating illegally your insurance will be invalidated.

Some specialist insurance firms are listed below:

Stuart Macdonald - Chamonix Mountain Guide

This article is courtesy of Stuart Macdonald, a fully qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide based in Chamonix Mont Blanc.

Stuart first came to Chamonix & climbed Mont Blanc with a group of school friends aged 17 where he immediately fell in love with the Alps & since then has climbed all around the world. In 2003 he decided to give up his military career & begin training as a professional Mountain Guide. Since then he has never looked back - "The mountains are my passion, my life & my home".

Now, with over 15 years experience in mountaineering, Stuart is an expert in rock climbing, ice climbing, alpine mountaineering & off-piste skiing/ski touring as well as being an Everest summiteer. Whatever your dream, he would like to share his passion for the mountains with you. Let Stuart guide you around Chamonix & the Mont Blanc region for the ultimate in enjoyment & safety.

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