Mountaineering in Chamonix & the Mont Blanc Massif
Mountaineering in Chamonix
Chamonix is quite simply the Mecca of Alpine Climbing. Whether you are a rock climber, ice climber, ski tourer, or just enjoy being in the mountains, Chamonix really is the place to be. The glaciers and icy slopes of the Mont Blanc Massif offer a massive number of climbing routes for alpinists, while the world famous Chamonix Granite is extremely popular with rock climbers.
Not only does the Mont Blanc Massif offer outstanding climbing, but the area is well prepared for climbers. The network of telepheriques and trains give rapid access to the high mountains, where a plethora of refuges offer fully catered accommodation. Many Mountain Guides operate in the area and are available to look after you if you need them. The valley also has an abundance of excellent gear shops, hotels, restaurants and bars enabling you not only to climb your dreams, but to relax afterwards.
The earliest recorded forays into the mountains above Chamonix were by Crystal hunters. For most other people there was really no point – few people had any leisure time ! But the Victorian Age was an age of invention and exploration. People wanted those remote places explored and mapped, and the mountains were no exception.
In 1760, Horace Benedict de Saussure from Geneva offers a reward for any man who can stand on the summit of Mont Blanc. There were several unsuccessful attempts in the ten years that followed, but each time the parties were unwilling to stay out overnight believing that it was impossible to survive a night in the snow.
Then in June 1786, a team set off hoping to make the top. They turned back when the sky clouded over, but one of the group, a young crystal hunter, was left behind. Jaques Balmat had left the group to look for crystals in some rocks, and when he returned the group had gone. Alone at 4,000m he started to descend on his own but was caught by the storm and forced to spend the night on the glacier sitting on his rucksack. The following morning he returned to Chamonix and an idea was born – you could plan to stay out overnight !
Local doctor, Michel Gabriel Paccard heard of the bivouac and decided to team up with Balmat for a summit attempt. Paccard was a skilled mountaineer, but Balmat knew the mountain well and as such they made a strong team. Paccard was keen to take a barometer to the summit and was not driven by the thought of the reward for summitting. His was a dream of science whereas Balmat’s was a dream of riches. On the 8th of August 1876 they reached the top, and Alpinism was born.
Over the following years the Golden Age of Alpinism was in full swing. At the time of the Mont Blanc Ascent all of the other peaks in the Massif (except the Midi) were unclimbed. In 1857 The Alpine Club was formed and thus became the first mountaineering club in the world. Its members included the likes of Edward Whymper who claimed a huge number of impressive first ascents, often in the company of local guide Michel Croz.
As more and more of the peaks were climbed, a new trend appeared, to climb different routes on the same peak. And so it continues……
The best time to come
For summer rock climbing and alpinism, mid June to the end of September offers the best weather and conditions. For winter alpinists it is actually possible to climb in the massif throughout the year if you are competent enough.
Ice climbers generally find that December to March are the best months to find quality ice in the valley. Good ice can be found in the high mountains any time between September and May. Off piste skiing conditions can vary greatly, but January to March are usually best, while ski tourers generally enjoy mid February to the end of April.
Getting Started in Mountaineering
There are numerous companies and individual guides operating in the Chamonix Valley who offer courses for beginners. IFMGA guides are the only people legally able to operate in the Mont Blanc Massif, and are all of a very high standard. British guides in particular are well known for their ability to instruct well, as well as guide clients.
Equipment & Clothing for Mountaineering
Below is a brief list of the basics you will need for summer alpinism:
Thermal long sleeve shirt
Thick socks
Warm hat
Sunglasses (Category 4 glacier glasses)
Warm gloves (at least 2 pairs)
Fleece Jacket or woollen jumper
Spare warm jacket
Waterproof/windproof outer layer (Gore Tex is very popular)
Boots (must have stiff soles for crampons)
Additional Equipment for basic Alpinism includes:
Crampons
Mountaineering Axe
Helmet
Harness
Prussik Loops(for crevasse rescue)
Rope
Sun cream (minimum SPF 30 and UVA and UVB resistant)
Lip Salve (high SPF)
Rucksack (40 litre maximum)
First Aid Kit (lightweight, with paracetomol and blister kit)
Emergency shelter (bivvy bag or similar)
First of all, don’t worry if you forget anything. Chamonix has some of the best gear shops in the world, and if they don’t stock it, you don’t need it! And you don’t always have to buy kit either. Many shops will rent crampons, ice axes, rock shoes and other useful gear. You’ll usually have to leave a deposit (credit card swipe or passport), but the gear is usually high quality and it’s often far cheaper than buying.
In Chamonix itself the best outdoor shop is Snell Sports on Rue Dr Paccard. They stock all the latest gear, and carry a huge selection for you to choose from. They also have an excellent range of guidebooks, in various languages, covering the Alps and even farther afield. Prices are a little on the high side, so try not to get carried away with the credit card.
If you have transport you can drive out to Le Fayet and visit Quechua Sports. This is a climbers dream, as prices are very reasonable and the “own brand” gear can be ridiculously cheap. Slightly further down the road on the edge of Sallanches is Au Vieux Campeur. They also stock a good range of gear and are well priced.
The best place for maps, reference books and guides in Chamonix is Le Maison de la Presse, located directly opposite Snell Sports.
Discounts – Unlike many places in the world getting discounts in shops in Chamonix is very hard. If you are a professional (Guide, Accompagnateur etc) you may get a 10% reduction, but otherwise forget it. Producing a mountaineering club card will get you nowhere.
Packing your Equipment
A few reminders if you are travelling by plane:
Security – The days of packing your heavy climbing gear in hand luggage are long gone! Anything sharp such as ice screws, axes or crampons must be in hold luggage. Ropes should also be stowed in the hold as should karabiners.
Rucksacks – Anything with loose straps, like a rucksack, will usually have to be dropped at the “Out of Gauge” baggage area. Save time by taping up loose straps before you travel.
Weight Allowances – Many airlines have cut their baggage allowances to 20kg or less. That means you’ll have to be smart when packing. Try and get as much clothing as possible into your hand luggage. Also think about what you can do without, and whether you can buy it/rent it in Chamonix. If planning on staying in huts and hotels you can do without a sleeping bag and a towel for example. You might choose to rent boots and crampons, thus saving several kilos. Disposables such as camera film, suncream and shower gel can all be bought in Chamonix, so why waste your baggage allowance bringing them from home ?
Skinets Support Tool |
