Chamonix mountaineering route to be bolted despite conservation concernsDebate heats up as Bonatti-Ghigo route to be bolted
The idea of hammering bolts along the face of the Bonatti-Ghigo route on the Grand Capuchin has ignited a feud between two mountaineering approaches. The Bonatti-Ghigo route on the Grand Capucin, part of the Mont Blanc massif, is a well known Chamonix climbing route that many climbers dream of summiting is subject to conservation concerns.
On one side of the debate there are the conservationists who want to preserve the rock in its natural state - just the thought of bolts along the Bonatti-Ghigo route is a heresy. On the other hand, there are progressive mountaineers, focussed on safety, who consider a strategically placed bolt could save a life - especially on such a frequently climbed route.
Italian guide, Francesco Civra Dano, started the work of equipping the route of the route last year and Italian newspaper La Stampa have reported that only a few more days are needed to complete the project.
Francesco Civra Dano claims "The 'spits' were installed only on stop-overs and with our own funding. These bolts do not facilitate the route, but enhance the security of a very busy climbing route and which sometimes suffers queues between climbers."
President of a Aosta Valley guide company, Azzalea Guido, howver is not of the same opinion:
"The natural stops on the Bonatti-Ghigo route work well and there is no need to add any bolts. It makes sense to bolt long routes where lots of climbers climb, but it is not the case with this route."