© Thomas Vialletet
© Camp to camp
Another First For PGHM Member Fabien Dugit
First free ascent of 'Balade au clair de lune' (Walking in the Moonlight) on Aiguille du Fou
With Fabien Dugit and Jeff Mercier opening a new route on the Aiguille du Plan a couple of months ago, and Jeff Mercier opening another on the Aiguille d'Argentiere earlier this month, it seems that when the PGHM members are not performing high mountain rescues they are constantly setting the standard for climbing within the Mont Blanc Massif.
The Aiguille du Fou is located halfway along the Chamonix Aiguilles and the 'Ballade au clair de lune' on its large blank south face was first climbed in 1983 by Boivin, Bellin and Moioli. This long and committing route is usually climbed in aid style, meaning you make your way up the rock by pulling on fixed gear or placed protection. This type of climbing is normally reserved for long, steep and committing routes where there is little or no chance of climbing in the 'free' style.
On the 3rd of June, their third trip to the Aiguille du Fou, Fabien Dugit along with Cedric Lachat made the first 'free' ascent of this daring climb. After fixing a few bolts on the impossible to protect slab sections, they managed to summit the Fou, 17 hours after leaving the Envers Refuge.
With very few bolts on the route, and not many cracks to protect the climb it was a serious undertaking, with many 'no fall' pitches. The hardest climbing grade was an 8b slab that had little or no protection and was described as a "long physical and psychological battle!".
A full account of their climb can be found here.
