The Valley Blanche
Valley Blanche (La Vallée Blanche) Ski Area
The Valley Blanche (La Vallée Blanche) starts at the top of the Aiguille du Midi and finishes in Chamonix’s town centre (snow permitting). It’s an unmarked, unmaintained, unpatrolled and unchecked high mountain off-piste ski itinerary which offers some of the most spectacular scenery the Mont Blanc range has to offer.
The Aiguille du Midi cable car is generally the popular starting point for the route and as such it can be a bit like Oxford Street in the rush hour! (Sunny weekends are generally to be avoided as many tend to savour the Valley Blanche until they have their ski legs back at the end of their weeks stay). Generally the lift company operates a number system where you can phone and pre-book your cable car in advance (for an additional fee of approximately 2 euros - free with MBU pass) This is highly recommended if you want to avoid an unpredictable and possibly long wait on a busy day.
The route starts at the top of the Aiguille du Midi (3812m) where after exiting the ice tunnel you are straight on to the ‘arête’. This is potentially one of the most dangerous points of the route as it is essentially a ridge edge you descend which has a 40degree pitch on both sides. In high season, a safety rope is placed along the descending path but it is still pretty intimidating knowing a safety rope is all that there is between you and the pea-sized buildings of Chamonix Town centre!
There are four main routes which people can choose from. The classical route ‘voie normal’ is fairly straight-forward providing you are following the advice of your hired guide. The route can be fairly busy during high season and it is not uncommon to see other alpinists ice climbing around the surrounding peaks or on the Toula glacier, or even across to the Helbronner lift station on the Italian side. The other routes are known as Le Vrai Valley Blanche, the Petit Envers du Plan and the Grand Envers du Plan. These are technically more challenging and involve couloir skiing so are not for your average ‘joe bloggs’.
If skiing the ‘voie normal’ after skiing the arête the route follows on to a large rock outcrop, known as Le Gros Rognon (‘the big rock’). Along the descending route you will see large séracs, crevasses and ice falls which are pretty impressive sparkling away in various shades of icy blue from the winter sunshine.
A popular pit stop for lunch is the Requin refuge but be wary in this area as avalanches can be prone here in the wet-snow/spring snow so take care when skiing here. A number of skiers also tend to stop at the ‘Salle a Manger’ beneath the séracs. These large ice structures can collapse at any time so it is best not to hang around in this area.
The route at the end of the Valley Blanche really favours skiers as it has a long flat run out which can be tricky for snowboarders to keep moving. During the spring it gets pretty slushy too so it is recommended that snowboarders take a pair of poles to push themselves along else it’s a long push for your back foot! In good snow conditions you can ski all the way back to Chamonix’s town centre, if not then the best way down, unless you want a long long walk out to Les Planards, is via the gondola and the Montenvers train.
It is highly recommended that skiers who undertake the Valley Blanche are fully equipped with necessary high mountain equipment and in the company of a professional mountain guide. Don’t be forgetting this is high mountain and glacial terrain; dangers include crevasses, sérac collapses and avalanche so make sure you know what you’re doing before you attempt it!
La Vallée Blanche : Do I have to take a guide?
Guides are not compulsory, and experienced skiers often make the descent without them. However, if you are unsure of your knowledge or ability on glaciated terrain, you should hire one of the many mountain guides that work in the area. They know the routes, can coach you in bad conditions and will minimise the risks involved. Before setting out, simply ask yourself the following:
- Have I got all the required equipment?
- Can I navigate down safely? Even if the weather turns bad?
- Have I got a first aid kit?
- Do I know how to perform crevasse rescue?
- What is the avalanche risk on the slopes I will be skiing, and do I know how to use my Avalanche Transceiver?
La Vallée Blanche : Do you need any specialist equipment?
Avalanche transceivers should be worn by all members of your party. These not only allow rescuers to find you in the event of an avalanche, but allow you to find others.
You should also wear a harness throughout the journey. This allows you to be rescued from a crevasse should you fall in. You will need at least one rope per party and the associated hardwear required to perform a rescue (slings, karabiners, ice screws, pulleys etc).
Shovels and probes are vital in case of avalanche. Although many teams descend without them, what use is a transceiver if you are unable to dig a victim out of the snow once you have located them ?
Most guides will be able to provide this equipment for their clients. Unguided teams can hire equipment from any of the major gear shops in the Chamonix Valley.
La Vallée Blanche : How good a skier do you have to be?
This varies depending on the conditions. Sometimes there is a firm base and it’s almost like skiing on the piste. In that case it can feel like a blue/red run. However, sometimes there’s a breakable crust or icy moguls, in which case it’s full on black. Most of the time a skier who is comfortable on any red runs should be able to cope with the easiest of the routes down.
La Vallée Blanche : How long does it take?
Most people make a day of the trip. For many it is the highlight of their life’s skiing, and they want to enjoy it. If you allow for regular breaks and a bit of sightseeing on the way down you will probably take between 4 and 6 hours for the round trip from Chamonix. Don’t forget that queues can be long for the Aiguille du Midi Telepherique, the arête from the Midi to the glacier, and for the return train from Montenvers. A lunch stop at either the Salle a Manger (Dining Room) on the glacier, or the Requin Refuge is quite common.
La Vallée Blanche : How many different routes are there?
There are numerous variations on the Vallee Blanche. The two most popular routes descend the easiest lines on the glacier from the Aiguille du Midi (French side) and from the Punta Helbronner (Italian side). There are dozens of alternatives that are much steeper and more serious. If you want to know more about them you should refer to the following guidebooks:
"Chamonix Off Piste" by Francois Burnier and Dominique Potard.
"Mont Blanc Ski Tours" by Eric Delaperriere and Franck Gentilini.
"Mont Blanc – a guide for skiers" by Anselme Baud.
La Vallée Blanche : Is it dangerous?
There are always dangers when skiing on glaciers in the high mountains. The main dangers on the Vallee Blanche are crevasse falls and avalanche. Either are potential killers and the descent should not be taken lightly.
If you are not sure exactly what you’re doing skiing on glaciers you should hire a mountain guide. Do not attempt to follow guided parties – they may be taking a much more serious route than the one you intend to descend.
La Vallée Blanche : Is it skiing all the way back to Chamonix?
Not quite. When you leave the Aiguille du Midi lift station you begin by descending a narrow snow ridge on foot to a flat shoulder where you put your skis on. This has very steep drops either side and during the main ski season it is equipped with ropes to use as handrails. From Punta Helbronner in Italy, a metal staircase leads down to the glacier.
Once you have your skis on you will normally keep them on until you arrive below the Montenvers railway station at the Mer de Glace. From there, you walk up a series of staircases to a small lift which transports you up to the station. Trains leave Montenvers for Chamonix every half hour, and more frequently in peak times, see here for timetables.
In good conditions it is possible to ski down to Chamonix and avoid using the train. From below the Montenvers Station continue to the end of the glacier, from there boot up the left hand slope and walk along a track for ten minutes to a buvette (snack stall). From there you ski down the track all the way down to the Planards ski area. It should be noted that this track is not always snow covered and it is worth finding out before you commit yourself to a potentially long walk down.
La Vallée Blanche : Is there anywhere to eat en route?
You can get meals at a few places on the route if you don’t want to carry any food with you. There is a café at the bottom of the Aiguille du Midi lift. There is then another café at the top. Half way down the Vallee Blanche is the Requin Refuge which is a guardianed high mountain hut. During the main season it serves hot meals and alcohol on its sunny terrace and is a popular place to stop (NB – Reservations can be required in peak season). At the Montenvers Railway Station there is another café where you can have a meal or a celebratory drink while you wait for your rain down to Chamonix.
Although there are numerous places to buy food during your descent it is very traditional for teams to stop in the Salle a Manger (Dining Room) on the glacier. There you can bask in the sunshine and enjoy your packed lunch in the very heart of the mountains.
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