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Climb Mont Blanc in 5 Days, Chamonix / Mont Blanc Valley

5 day course to climb Mont Blanc

featured in Guides & tours

If you are thinking about climbing Mont Blanc, and have little or no mountaineering experience but have a good level of fitness and motivation, then this is the course for you!

The preparation for the course is done in the most spectacular environment within the Mont Blanc range, the Tour and Trient glacier.

The first 2 days are dedicated to mountaineering and technical preparation (snow, ice and rock), which is done on and around the glacier, and includes the climb of the Aiguille du Tour. These initial days are also designed to help you acclimatise.

Days 3, 4 and 5 are for the Mont Blanc summit bid and the descent. the trip will normally take the tramway to the Nid d’Aigle (Eagle’s Nest), from where you will climb up to the Tete Rousse refuge. You will reach the summit of Mont Blanc either from there or the Gouter refuge.

Itinerary 
The night before at approx 6.30 pm (will be confirmed depending on your arrival time), meet with your guide at Hotel Pointe Isabelle in Chamonix for a briefing and gear check.

Your guide will bring the equipment you requested, or accompany you if you need to purchase or rent boots or any additional items. Your night in the hotel, with breakfast, is included.

Day 1: Snow & ice technical skills, Albert Premier hut - Altitude covered: + 570m,
From the top of the Balme chairlift, you'll be learning ice and snow climbing basics on the Tour glacier with crampons, ice axes and ropes. Steep-slope security and crevasse rescue will also be covered. In the afternoon, you hike to the Albert Premier Hut at 2702m where you will have dinner and stay overnight.

Day 2: Climbing & acclimatisation, Chamonix - Altitude covered: + 530 m and –873 m
A day of stunning views as you head towards Col Blanc, crossing a 50-degree slope to emerge between the Petite Fourche and the summit of the Tête Blanche. Following the Fenêtre de Saleina and Fenêtre Supérieure du Tour you descend the Tour glacier and take a chairlift down to the village of Le Tour. then back to Chamonix for a good night's sleep in the Hotel Pointe Isabelle.

Day 3: Nid d’Aigle to the Tête Rousse hut
Take the tramway up to the Nid d'Aigle (Eagle’s Nest) at 2300m, then a 3-hour hike up to the Tête Rousse glacier followed by dinner and night in the Tête Rousse hut (3167m).

Day 4: Ascent of Mont Blanc, back down to the Gouter hut - Altitude covered: + 1700 m/- 1000 m
This is the longest day of around 10 hours. A 5am start over the Tete Rousse glacier, to reach the famous Gouter couloir. Rock scrambling will be required on the Aiguille du Gouter until the Gouter hut where you'll have a short rest. You then climb the Dome du Gouter and continue to the Vallot Hut where you can stop for a drink and snack.

After you will climb the first technical steep slope on the Mont Blanc. The second slope is easier technically, but you will need to be motivated to counteract the effects of the altitude and fatigue before climbing the final ridge to the Mont Blanc summit. At the summit, you will generally have approximately 15 minutes to stand on the top of Europe, look at the view over the Western Alps, catch your breath, and congratulate each other!

The descent of the Mont Blanc is via the same route, to reach the Gouter hut where you'll have dinner and spend the night. Please note the Gouter and Tete Rousse huts are interchangeable, depending on when they are able to get reservations.

Day 5: Descent of Mont Blanc - Altitude covered: - 2435 m
An easy and short day with breakfast at 7am and then start the descent of the Aiguille du Gouter, which will be straightforward after a good night's sleep. A brief stop at the Tete Rousse hut for a drink after which you head down to the Nid d'Aigle train. Cable car to Les Houches and back to the hotel or wherever you are staying.

Your guide will present you with your Mont Blanc achievement certificate, normally over a well-deserved drink!

This schedule has been refined by the guides, who genuinely believe is the best way to climb Mont Blanc, for a number of reasons:

  • You are not obliged to wake up in the middle of the night to commence the ascent
  • You will be climbing during the day giving you extra light and warmer conditions
  • You will descend the Aiguille du Gouter having rested and recuperated
  • If bad weather is forecast for summit day, you'll reach the Gouter hut and make your summit bid the following day. This will give an additional chance to reach the summit.

Alternative Itineraries and routes:

In case of bad weather forecast predicted on the summit day, your itinerary may change as follows:

  • Day 3: Sleeping in Tête Rousse hut
  • Day 4: Ascent towards Goûter hut and sleeping up there
  • Day 5: Mont Blanc ascent and descent towards Tête Rousse and Chamonix valley

If bad weather forecast for the Mont Blanc Range at the time of your trip, in accordance with you and your guide you have the choice of the following alternatives:

  • Climb Grand Paradiso (4060 m) in Italy (no money refunded)
  • Stop the course after the first two days, and receive a credit towards another next attempt
  • Postpone the summit attempt 1 or 2 days until better weather. This is dependent on availability of spaces in the refuges, the guide and the availibility of the clients in the group

What's included

  • The organisation of the Mont Blanc 5 day course trip
  • UIAGM certified high mountain guide (maximum ratio of 1:6 on days 1-3, a maximum ratio of 1:2 on days 4-6)
  • 5 nights accommodation in Chamonix 3* hotel or mountain refuges, starting from the night before your course
  • All meals, except dinner in Chamonix on one night
  • All transport within the Chamonix valley
  • Safety equipment provided by your guide (rope, ice screws, etc)
  • Tramway / cablecars

Worth knowing

Fitness level

There will be 6 to 8 hours of walking per day, 12 hours for Mont Blanc summit day, with vertical climbs of between 800 and 1500m.

Excellent fitness is therefore required. Please arrive fit; you cannot get in shape on the mountain!

Accommodation

Two nights are spent in a 3 star hotel in Chamonix, usually the Pointe Isabelle and includes breakfast. The other 3 nights are in In mountain refuges. There is no tap water in the refuges, so please budget for the purchase of bottled water.

Half board (dinner and breakfast) provided in the refuges.
Hearty packed lunches are provided, which you carry.
You can bring your own extra snacks, e.g. energy bars, dried fruit and nuts. Don't bring anything heavy, or things which might squash, leak or spoil.
Vegetarian options available on request.

Location

Map of the surrounding area