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Chamonix Activity Report: 12th August 2008

featured in Activity reviews Author Tom Wilson-North, Updated

It's not all blue skies, green pastures and snowy peaks up here in Haute Savoie country. Sometimes, for instance, the skies are grey. And sometimes, god forbid, it rains.

I can only blame myself; after smugly writing about the UK's terrible weather last week, the heavens opened over Chamonix...and since yesterday (11/08), it's been cats and dogs. Lifts closed...walls too wet to climb...fingers too cold to bike...clouds too thick to hike. The rain is a real bore. However, unlike back at home, there's still stuff to do in Chamonix when it's raining...you've just got to look for it. So, if the unthinkable should happen and the weather gets miserable while you're up here, check out our Guide To Rainy Days In Chamonix.

1. Go to Montenvers. The Compagnie du Mont Blanc, who operate the lifts here, claim that this is where mountain tourism began. Montenvers was the first alpine railway installed as a tourist attraction, way back in 1908 - the time where ice axes had wooden handles. Montenvers is great to visit when it's raining as the rack-and-pinion railway that takes you up there is under cover, the views are normally OK even in dodgy weather, and it's included on the Multipass lift ticket.

Upon arrival at Montenvers, stroll past the packed Brighton Beach style cafés and make your way down the walkway, passing under the railway until you get to the hotel. It's a magnificent building, full of history and period charm, and they have lots of leather sofas around a warm fire which blazes in the lobby. We recommend the hot chocolate with chantilly cream.

2. Check out the Espace Tairraz
Behind the tourist office and church, the Alpine museum currently has a 'Glaciers & Mankind' exhibition on show, which whilst not exactly a barrel of laughs, is a fairly interesting geography lesson for grown ups. The pictures of the Chamonix glaciers coming all the way down to valley level are awesome. It's definitely worth the 4 euros admission (reduced from 5,20 if you've got a Carte D'Hote guest card).

3. Go Shopping
August is definitely the time to shop, with the local sales being in full effect all around town. All of the big brand stores - Quiksilver, Billabong, Helly Hansen, Peak Performance, Patagonia, Benetton, Lacoste - have reductions. The privately-owned boutique stores, such as Excess, Legend'Chx and Zero G, have funky streetwear and often a better deal can be done on products than what's marked on the label. Finally, swing by Vertige, the tiny boutique sandwiched between Petit Casino and Le Pub. They're shutting up shop, to reopen as a Nikita brand store this winter (shhh!), so there are tons of really nice things with really nice price tags there.

4. Go To Lac Bleu
The CMB rarely, if ever, close the bottom section of the Aiguille du Midi in the summer unless the wind is terrible. So if that lift pass is really burning a hole in your pocket, jump on and head up up to midstation, then take a walk for fifteen minutes up to Lac Bleu. The lake is incredibly clear and surrounded by huge grey boulders - a great place to take photos and be outside. Follow the luminous pink splodges on the rocks until you're there.

5. Go Bowling
Bowling. What can we say? Balls and lanes. And if that's not enough, there is a bar with billiard tables, pool tables and an indoor mini golf upstairs.

6. Go to the movies
Cinema Vox has all the latest releases in English and French languages...and last time we checked, there were no leaks in the roof, which makes it an ideal choice when the elements prohibit more adventurous activities. We saw The Mummy 3 there last week, which whilst presented with excellent visual quality and booming sound, was the cinematographical equivalent of chewing my own hand off.

...and, of course, if all else fails, do as the locals do and...

7. Get Drunk
From Chambre Neuf to Elevation, Le Pub to Choucas, Monkey to Munster, South Bar to Couleur Café, Mix to Bar D'Up, Soulfood to MBC, there are plenty of places around town that open early enough for you to get your drink on and sip the clouds away. Cheers!