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Chamonix Activity Report: 20th July 2012

Lake Passy : cycling, swimming & more ice cream

featured in Activity reviews Author Alison Shayler, Chamonix Reporter Updated

The weather gods have been smiling on us yet again this week; every day has been better than forecast and the various tan lines from different vests/t-shirts/bikinis are starting to create strange geometric patterns across my arms and legs.

Tuesday was a scorcher, which was not perfect weather for mountain biking up the Petit Balcon Nord to Argentiere with a hangover but I managed. The cause of the hangover was Open Mic Night on Monday at Bar'd Up. I'd never been before and I think I was expecting something along the lines of a screeching karaoke party but the night started off with the mesmeric sounds of Dr Robeatnik, a slightly nutty-professor looking guy who appeared to still be wearing his pajamas but can do wonderful things with a loop pedal. Accompanied by Rich Rat on keyboard he built layer after layer of sound until it seemed as though there was about 20 guys all playing at once, it may sound like a gimmicky bit of electronic trickery but the effect is impressive and quite moving. After that he was followed by a whole load of other local singers/musicians who just proved how much talent there is in this valley, my new favourite is Irish Barry - great voice and I love his chilled out laid-back style. He has regular gigs lined up at Munster and Le Derapage, so look out for him.

On Wednesday I took my road biking to the next level and made it all the way to Lake Passy (see map). My plan was to catch the train to Servoz and set off from there but I was told that was cheating and that I would not be allowed an ice cream if I didn't conquer the dreaded Vaudagne hill. From Chamonix we set off past Les Gaillands and headed through Les Bosson and Les Houches to the Prarion gondola, turning off at the roundabout and following the signs to Vaudagne... up, up, up to Vaudagne. Luckily the road is mostly shaded and the surface is smooth, I must also be getting better (or I am really motivated by ice cream) as it actually wasn't as bad as I expected and we reached the top just at the point where I was starting to flag. The worst part was the descent; it was so long that my hands had locked themselves into claws by the time I got to the bottom from gripping the handlebars so tight and the long winding road down to Servoz is far more potholed than the ascent from Les Houches. I was glad to have made it in one piece and from there on it was pretty much plain sailing over the bridge to Servoz and on through Passy, looking out for the left hand turn down to Lac de Passy. The road takes you through some beautiful villages and climbs quite high at first so you get great aerial views of the valley below as you freewheel down towards the lake.

It seems the rest of France had had the same idea as us; the lake was packed with sun worshippers and swimmers all in holiday mode. We could have found a peaceful spot at the far end of the lake but we were drawn in by the Costa del Passy atmosphere and decided to get stuck in with the suncream & sandcastles brigade; the icy cold waters were perfect therapy for my aching leg muscles and didn't actually feel too Baltic once I was in. Lake Passy is perfect on a hot day; there are designated areas for swimming, sailing, fishing & dogs as well as walking trails around the lake and a couple of little snack bars; it is overlooked by the snowy peaks of the Mont Blanc range at one end and the jagged teeth of the Massif des Fiz at the other.

After a dip and a snooze in the sun we were ready to hit the road again; I had halcyon memories of riding through Passy, whizzing along mountain roads and admiring the view. I hadn't quite taken notice of how far down we had come though, which meant that the ride back up again was a long long uphill slog which didn't relent until we got to Vieux Servoz. From the beeps and waves that we got along the way I think the passing drivers were entertained by the sight of my friend either cycling right behind me with his hand pushing against my back, or alongside me dragging me up by the scruff of my neck; I called it a day at Servoz and caught the train back to Chamonix but he soldiered on up and over Vaudagne and back via Les Houches, after which we headed straight for the Patisserie Richard ice cream stall for a scoop of banana caramel heavenly deliciousness.

The weather looks a bit iffy over the weekend, but then again it has exceeded expectations recently and defied the forecast so I guess we'll have to wait and see... a bad weather day might be quite a good excuse to stay under the duvet tomorrow as tonight is the Old Skool 90's party at Le Vert, dig out your glow sticks and practice your big fish little fish dance if you can remember that far back!

There is loads more live music lined up for the Cosmojazz Festival that will take place next week (25-29th) in Chamonix and up the mountains, check out our calendar for all upcoming events.

Location

Map of the surrounding area