Chamonix Activity Report: 21st August 2012
Via Ferrata Adventures in Passy
If you’re anything like me then being active is as important as brushing your teeth and you don’t let anything like 35 degree heatwaves, a total lack of air, and a constant flow of perspiration keep you from getting out and about to do ‘stuff’!! When heat like we’re currently experiencing descends upon our Alpine valley, we have just got to think smart and adapt to what nature is telling us.
And so it was last week that I abandoned the airless heat of the crag and its skin scorching rock and headed instead to a higher place in search of fresh air, a bit of a breeze, and my drug of choice - a lethal cocktail of adrenaline and altitude and a smattering of physical activity! I wish I could pretend I was off for a spot of wingsuiting but I’m really not even remotely nails so we opted for the slighly less lethal, but definitely pulse raising activity known as Via Ferrata.
Via Ferrata translates literally as the 'Iron Road' and it is basically an aerial obstacle course of fixed ladders, wires and bridges bolted to the rock. The history behind it all is arguably even cooler than the Via Ferratas themselves as the first ones were built in the Dolomites in Italy during the First World War to aid the movement of the Italian mountain troops. Nowadays the original Via Ferratas have been restored and new ones have sprung up all over the Alps to be enjoyed by nutters such as myself looking for something to do of an afternoon that is a little bit more exciting than crazy golf....
What’s really great about Via Ferratas is that they allow people with minimal climbing expertise or knowledge to have a real mountain experience complete with exposure and fantastic views. Moreover they teach you the importance of self-responsibility, of managing your fears in pressure situations and that you always reap the rewards of pushing beyond your comfort zone! And as a Scot what is particularly appealing is that they are free!! In fact all you need to for a Via Ferrata adventure is a harness, helmet, and a couple of Via Ferrata-specific carabiners, lanyard and shock absorber. You can hire Via Ferrata kits from local sports shops and other than that, the only other equipment to bring is your camera, some water, good footwear, and whatever clothing the weather dictates....
To access the start of the Via Ferrata, follow signs for Plateau d’Assy and then look for signs to the car park which is on the left of the road as you arrive on the plateau. The walk-in to the base of the Via Ferrata is a pretty steep hike up through the forest and definitely wakes up the muscles for what lies ahead! After about 20 minutes you will come to a clearing and the start of the aerial adventure: the views here are just spectacular and provide the backdrop for the whole route. Mont Blanc, Aiguille Verte, the Aiguille du Midi, Pointe Percee - they’re all there watching over you to provide a little bit of perspective when you’re getting a little bit too nervous!
Compared to other Via Ferratas that I’ve done in the past, the start of the Passy one is great as you’re straight into the steep stuff from the first clip! The route is graded as AD (assez-difficile) and the crux comes pretty quickly into the action and involves what is known as a Nepalese bridge: basically a tiny wire which you have to cross by doing your best trapeze artist impression and not thinking at all about how it is bouncing around all over the shop. Oh and remembering at all times not to concentrate on the massive drop below or the fact that you are very, very far from being anything remotely resembling a trapeze artist! I strongly recommend not thinking too much about what you’re doing, just focusing on looking where you’re putting your feet and smiling at all times!
The whole route takes about an hour or so and we were extremely lucky to be on it as the sun was going down so were treated to fantastic views of the Mont Blanc Massif bathed in impossibly pink and red Alpenglow. Although this was amazing to see, I wouldn’t recommend starting the route too late because the end of the Via Ferrata is not the end of the adventure - there is a 45 minute walk back to the car park and by the time we got there it was actually pitch black! Luckily we had headtorches and chocolate in our packs so senses of humour were easily maintained!
For anyone looking for an adventure I can’t recommend a Via Ferrata enough. The only problem I can see is that they can actually become quite addictive and I’m already planning my next adventure to the Col de Colombiere to take on the Tour du Jallouvre which at the next grade up (D/D+) looks even more tasty!
For more information on Via Ferrata and other summer activities in the Chamonix valley take a look at our activities page.
