Chamonix Hiking Trails Review

Armed with my Carte des Sentiers (Chamonix walking map available at the tourist office for just 4.50€) we have followed routes up to Mer de Glace, the Refuge de la Pierre a Berard and to the Bellevue cable car in Les Houches. It is worth noting that there is still a bit of snow 1000 and 2000 metres. If fact this Saturday in Le Vallon de Berard as we approached the Refuge de la Pierre a Berard we could see those that weren't quite ready to let go of winter were touring up toward Mont Buet and sking down. Therefore, I advise wearing proper hiking boots or particularly grippy trainers, otherwise you'll end up like I did in Les Houches, traversing a snowy couloir on all fours, gripping onto the mountain for dear life, almost getting frost-bite in my hands in the process (...having made it safely to the other side, the rest of the group decided that this was probably a little dangerous and we should take another route to the top which resulted in me having to scramble all the way back..).  

The walk to the Refuge de La Pierre a Berard is perfect for those that don't want anything too steep and want to see plenty of wildlife from marmots to Ibexs. Ibexs are scattered all over this mountain path; they seem pretty used to people and will move out the way, if somewhat begrudgingly (you'll often find them peering after you and then reclaiming their spot on the trail). They should however be approached with caution - I certainly wouldn't want to mess with those horns. The walk follows the river towards its source and you'll pass a large impressive waterfall as well as crossing many contributing mountain streams. The views down the valley once you reach the refuge are well worth the trek. The walk takes about 2hrs to the refuge and 1.45hrs back. 

If you want to challenge yourself with a fairly sharp incline then try the walk up to the Bellevue station lift in Les Houches. Once at the top you are rewarded with fantastic panoramic views that make you feel like you are on the film set of the Sound of Music. There are also some stunning views on you way up before you hit the tree-line all the way to Le Tour or down towards Servoz. A round trip will take approximately 4 hrs with a lunch stop at the top. 

The route to the Mer de Glace via the Rouchers des Mottets refuge is the most varied. You will get fairly steep ascents (personally for me the start at Planards is always a little challenging) as well as shallow mountain paths, you'll pass through green meadows and forest, cross train tracks and streams and enjoy a bit of scrambling over rocky surfaces. Once at the top you can visit the ice caves, take in the views of the glacier or take the Montenver train back to Chamonix if you don't fee like the walk down. The walk up can take between 2 - 3 hrs depending on conditions. When we did it there was a lot of snow after the Rochers des Mottets which slowed us down. If you choose to walk down again, there is an alternative route via the arches that take about 2hrs. 

For full details of all these trails and others, read our hiking routes reviews.