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Speed & Lead Results from the Climbing World Cup

This weekends competition was as good as ever

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Ellie Mahoney | Chamonix Editor | Published: 15 Jul 2014


Speed & Lead Results from the Climbing World Cup

This weekend's Climbing World Cup leg in Chamonix was full of thrills and spills, a touch of controversy over the set up of the wall, and as ever was a great spectacle for the crowd to enjoy.

Tom Humpage was there enjoying all the action and has sent us this report & photography..

In Speed Climbing French climber Anouck JOUBERT (FRA) got of to blistering start posting an 8.00 flat time in qualification followed by two consistently fast climbs in the quarter finals. But a slip in the semi finals and a false start in the small finals put the pressure on and Mariia Krasavina (RUS) piped her to third place in 7.70 the fastest time of the evening. The grand final saw Alina Gaidamakina (RUS) up against Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL) with Aliana having one false start against her already and slightly slower times than her opponent for most of the event Aleksandra had to be going in to final as favourite but with two uncharacteristic mistakes by her she left the door wide open for Aliana to claim victory.

In the men’s event Reza Alipourshena (ISI) got to the small final having already knocked out the tall, Czech favourites Libor Hroza (CZE) and went on to podium 3rd knocking Bassa Mawem (FRA) out of the medals. Marcin Dzienski (POL) was looking hard to beat posting the fastest times all event, but a fall in the final handed the win to Danylo Boldyrev (UKR).

MEN Speed result
1. Danylo Boldyrev UKR                    Time 7.20 sec
2. Marcin Dzienski POL                     Time Fall
3. Reza Alipourshena ISI                   Time 6.01 sec 

WOMEN Speed result
1. Alina Gaidamakina RUS                Time 8.30 sec *
2. Aleksandra Rudzinska POL           Time   Fall
3. Mariia Krasavina RUS                    Time  7.70 sec *

[*Mariia Krasavina & Alina Gaidamakina (and a number of male competitors) set what would have been numerous new world records, however due to technical issues with the wall not fitting IFSC standards, the records do not stand. The world record for women is currently 8.33s and 5.58s for the men].

In Lead Climbing Jakob Schubert (AUT) qualified first with Romain Desgranges (FRA) just a few holds behind making for what the French would hope to be a nail biting final. Whilst Sachi Amma (JPN) only just qualified in 8th place scrapping through and knocking Sean McColl (CAN) out. With Sachi Amma disappointing qualification he started first in the finals and climbed what looked to be a very average climb finishing with just a 28+. But what followed was a list of the world top climbers all falling well before the top and not even getting close to Sachi’s score. Questions are being asked about the difficulty / grade of the route. A short day out for the man and a slightly disappointing show for the crowd.

The women’s event was a far more crowd-pleasing affair. Mina Markovic (SLO) qualified first in the quarter finals and joint first with Jain Kim (KOR) in semi finals making her favourite going in to the final round. As the light faded around Chamonix and the spotlights came on, all eight finalist put on a cracking performance with Jain Kim coming out victorious with her usual graceful yet often dynamic style of climbing taking her just a few hold from the top and a 50+ score.

MEN Lead results 
1. AMMA Sachi               JPN
2. Jakob Schubert          AUT
3. Domen Skofic             SLO

WOMEN Lead results
1. Kim Jain                             KOR
2. Magdalena Röck                AUT
3. Markovic Mina                   SLO

Take a look at Tom's full set of photos on his facebook page.