Chamonix Snow Report: 21st February 2009

Backcountry. The mere word conjures up images of enormous, powder-laden descents; of sweeping through glades of pine trees...of being alone with the mountains, in perfect silence, with no-one for miles. On the flip side, true backcountry is only backcountry because it's hard to get to. Miles of traversing; two-hour hikes; slogging up ridgelines, covered in sweat, to get to the real backcountry.

There's always going to be a place for the genuine article, but higher still on my list is the lazy ski-bum's alternative. Slackcountry. The 'slackcountry' is so called for it's easy access - no long hikes here, just a little creative traversing. It's out of area boundaries, but so long as you know where you're going, it's the business. The powder without the hiking. The smooth without the rough. The birthday without the wait. The Christmas without the in-laws. Glastonbury without the mud.

So how do you find this stuff? Well, these unmarked trails are normally tucked away, around a spur or over a crest. You can't see them until you get to them. So there are two ways. First up, if you're not sure, get a high-mountain guide to show you the secret spots. Alternately, ask around in the bar. Anyone with gogglemarks who's drinking the cheapest beer is a good bet. Thirdly, follow tracks...not recommended, especially up here in Chamonix. Finally, check out some of our favourites which we've hit up recently.

1. The Magic Forest
As you're travelling up the Plan Joran chairlift at Les Grands Montets, look to your right...the woods here are beautiful in fresh snow, and get better the further left you go into them. Plenty of cliffs to jump and pillow lines to point. Beware though; there's only one way out, a traverse back to Plan Joran to the right, and it's a long walk out if you miss the exit.

2. The Golf Course
Flégère's Floria drag lift accesses some beautiful terrain which we've spoken about previously in this column; the Golf Course is on the way to Lac Blanc, requiring a longish traverse and a shor scramble up an arete. The scramble puts a lot of slackers off, meaning that diehard slackcountry riders will be rewarded with fresh powder and a beautiful descent down to the Trappe chairlift.

3. The Back Bowls
Le Tour's secret spot is (was) to the looker's left of the Tete de Balme chairlift. There are plenty of options for sliding here, some requiring hiking, but the straight traverse to the goods is well worth it. Two significant dangers over here; the risk of avalanche from the bowls above is significant, even when it hasn't snowed for a while. The aspect of the terrain makes it very liable to subtle windloading from the other side of the ridge...avalanche gear and the skills to use it is an absolute must. Secondly, the exit back to the bottom of the Tete de Balme lift is difficult to find, even in good visibility; if you're headed into the Back Bowls, do take someone who knows the area well - best of all a professional high mountain guide.

So there you have it; the info that'll make your stay in Chamonix that much better. It's always worth taking avalanche gear when you're headed off-piste...in fact, as of this week, off-piste skiers in the Piedmont (Sauze, Sestrière et al) area of Italy will face a 250€ fine if caught without transceiver, shovel and probe. Good news all round; hopefully it'll ensure that those of us who aren't completely autonomous off-piste will go there with a mountain guide.

There are no storms in the ten-day forecast; the snow gods have got their feet up for now. I found myself in much the same legs-raised position after I'd been riding Brevent yesterday; on the Peak Experience café terrace at the gondola bottom, munching a 3€ ham-and-cornichons sandwich. Great value grub served by pleasant parapenters.

See you in the slackcountry, fellow slackers!

Tom