Chamonix Snow Report: 26th January 2008

The Vallee Blanche is quite rightly the highlight of many trips to Chamonix, and one of the most memorable days out that boarders and skiers may ever have. The trip starting from the top of the Aigulle du Midi at 3842m and descending all the way back to Chamonix via the spectacular Mer de Glace is truly awesome and not to be missed.

I am regularly asked “will I be able to do it?” To be able to complete the Vallee Blanche you will need to be reasonably fit, have a head for heights, able to side slip, and be a solid red piste skier or boarder able to follow tracks in good control. Your guide will also be able to advise you.

It is VITAL that you engage the services of a qualified guide. The cost of a guide is from around 70€ pp in a group, including special equipment such as- transceiver, probe, shovel, and harness, but not the cost of the lift ticket. Alternatively the cost of a guide for a private group is from around 270€ normally with an additional charge if the group numbers more than 4. The Midi is covered on the Mont Blanc Unlimited pass, a day ticket is 47€.

At the risk of repeating myself, for which I make no apology, the Vallee Blanche is a high mountain route, and potentially dangerous. There has already been an incident and possible fatality, this season involving an unguided and ill-equipped skier. There is no track, no piste markers, no avalanche control or piste patrol, there are many crevasses some hidden, and the weather can change very quickly for the worse despite an apparently good forecast, plus you will need specialist equipment. Hire a guide.

There are a number of more difficult variations on the classic route, which take steeper more direct lines. The classic line which we were following however takes a wide sweep to skiers right, under the massive face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. The snow here is often in poor condition hard and wind blown, today it was wind affected but quite soft. As we passed the Gros Rognon on our left there was a party getting some fresh powder on its flank, there is however a band of large crevasses at the bottom!

The next section, the decent of the steeper Seracs du Geant, was well filled and flattened by the passage of many riders and skiers, and even some small moguls have appeared here. We by-passed the temptation of the traverse to the Refuge du Requin, as we were intent on a picnic lower down. Despite the name, the “Salle a Manger” has never been my preferred spot for lunch; I think towering Seracs put me off my sandwiches. In any case we were making good progress, and the Salle a Manger was still in the shade. The next section is flat and boarders need to carry a bit of speed here or even a ski pole.

The area where the Tacul and Leschaux glaciers meet is always an interesting jumble of tortured ice and today the snow cover was a little thin in places. As we emerged into the sunshine a little lower down, we found some “comfy” rocks to sit on, and enjoyed our lunch in the magnificent surroundings. With Montenvers in sight there was just the last section to negotiate which again had thin snow cover in places over the steel hard glacier ice.

We had heard that the track from Montenvers was also thin in places and had decided to take the train down the final section. This is no soft touch (yes it is) as it involves climbing hundreds of steps up to the lift, from the ice grotto. From the train, glimpses of the track confirmed that the train had been the best option as many bare patches were evident on the track.

As forecast the avalanche risk dropped today, to 2, moderate. The weather is forecast to be clear and warm until Thursday, when some forecasters predict snow, but it is still early to be sure.

If you fancy doing the Vallee Blanche talk to one of these guys Chamonix Guides

Check out what to do around town once the lifts have closed with our latest Apres Ski Report - a weekly round up of what's hot and where to party in Chamonix!

Useful Information
Cross-country skiing is Open
Piste Maps for Chamonix (pdf format), Les Houches (jpg format), Cross-country skiing (pdf format), and Mountain-bike trails (pdf format)
Current status for opening of Pistes & Lifts
Chamonix Webcam Index

We will be keeping this Chamonix snow report updated often during the season, but if you want even more up-to-date news on the ski conditions, why not sign up for our Dump Alert? We'll email you each time it snows enough to significantly change the skiing conditions. It's great to know that the snow is falling in the run-up to your holiday, and it might even allow you to book a last-minute weekend when the snow is particularly good. The service is free, and you can unsubscribe whenever you like.

Useful Links
Swiss Federal Institute for Snow and Avalanche Research
French Avalanche Research Institute
Meteo France - Mountain weather and avalanche conditions bulletins (in French)
Henry's Avalanche Talk - popular avalanche training sessions based in French Alps as well as translation of current avalanche conditions
PisteHors.com - Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding News in English for the French Alps. Excellent coverage of avalanche safety and advice.

Additional snow and weather information provided, with thanks, by meteo.chamonix.com and the Tourist Office