Chamonix Snow Report: 29th February 2012

So, instead, I donned my lycra and hit the cross country ski trails this week. As I mentioned in a previous report, this is where you will find many of the locals during the February holidays. Chamonix has a great network of trails for “ski de fond” or “Nordic skiing” as they call it over here; graded the same as the alpine ski runs from green to red and set up for both styles of cross country skiing. “Classic” is the easier one for beginners, where you place your skis in the prepared parallel tracks and away you go. “Skating” is a bit more energetic and requires a modicum of technique in order to propel yourself around the trails. Both styles of ski (and the lightweight boots) can be hired relatively cheaply for about €10-€15 for the day from most sport shops in the town.

There are two distinct areas for Nordic skiing in the valley; Chamonix has the easier, gentler pistes where beginners can practice their technique on the nice flat terrain around the Bois de Bouchet between the MBC and L’Arveyron hotel in Les Praz. Beyond this point, the trails get slightly harder (graded blue and red) as they go past the heli pad and then climb up through the forests to La Norvege. At the far end of the Desert Blanc and at La Norvege, you’ll also see shooting ranges set up for biathalon training and periodic competitions.

The other main area is up in Argentiere which is definitely for the more accomplished or energetic skier as the trails are mostly graded red with the odd blue one mapped out for good measure. You’ll pass the start of the pistes at Les Iles where the Foyer du Fond building is on your left if you were driving to Grands Montets from Chamonix. The skiing is much harder up there but the trails are set in lovely sunny open meadowland with fabulous views back down the valley. Snow conditions permitting, it is also possible to ski from the Chamonix area to Argentiere via Le Lavancher, but this only is for your real serious lycra wearer and something I only tend to do in the opposite direction in the summer.....on a mountain bike!

Wherever you choose to ski you are also required to first purchase a pass which you can buy from the Foyer du Fond buildings opposite the MBC in Chamonix or in up in Les Isles. A day pass costs €7.60 for adults and €4.70 for kids but don’t forget that your Guest Card (or Resident's card) will give you discount (€5.90/€3.00). If you get hooked then there are also weeklong and season pass options available too. Whilst it may be tempting to sneak onto the trails without a pass (as there aren’t any turnstiles to pass through), be warned, there are roving officials dotted throughout the areas who do check your tickets and they are VERY fast should you decide to make a break for it!

Further down the valley, Les Houches has also got a couple of smallish ski de fond areas, both of which are free to use. There is a beginners' area around Lac des Chavants, just beyond the parking for the Prarion gondola, but this is always very quick to suffer when the weather starts to warm up. At the top of the Prarion (so free if you already have an MBU lift pass...) are some more advanced trails but the stunning views from the top more than outweigh the additional effort required to get round.

Last year it was also possible to do night cross country skiing in between Le Buet and Vallorcine which I did a few times and was quite keen to do again. The beginners trail was illuminated every Friday night with strings of fairy lights – it was all very magical! However, I hadn’t seen any sign of it this year and on enquiry, it seems that they are no longer allowed – Health & Safety have stepped in. Apparently, were you to have accidentally touched any of the lights, there was a pretty good chance that you’d end up with coif like Brian May in miliseconds! Ho hum, you can still ski there in the daytime though and it’s very pretty!

The warmer temperatures and sunshine are still with us and we’re promised 100% sunshine for the next couple of days. It was only about -3 in town this morning and it’s getting to about 13 degrees as the afternoon progresses. However, as you may have read in our News section, this wave of warmth has been causing some unexpected slides to happen on the hill. Even though we haven’t had any new snow for a while, the avalanche warning is still hanging around 2 or 3/5 so be careful out there. If we all cross our fingers and wish really hard we might just get a bit more snow on Sunday!