Chamonix Snow Report: 4th April 2008

As soon as we emerged from the tunnel we were in another world, brilliant sunshine and it had snowed right down to the village. At the top of the Val Veny cable car we were greeted by trees groaning under the weight of fresh snow, and 30cm of powder on the piste!

What followed was the best day of the season for me. After a couple of runs on the Black piste down to Zerotta, which was nigh waist deep in light powder, we began lapping the off-piste above and skiers right of the red piste off the Cresta Youla, it was sublime, 30+cm of light powder over a soft base and best of all untracked. If it had been anywhere in the Chamonix valley it would have been shredded in half an hour, but we were able to bag line after line. We only stopped out of sheer exhaustion.

After a quick stop for lunch and to catch our breath, we started again this time on the face below and skiers left of the red piste, accessed by a short steep gully, we skied and rode ourselves into near oblivion. Eventually we retired back to the Val Veny cable car still fizzing with the exhilaration, and grinning like Cheshire cats.

We finished off the day in the bar at the top of Courmayeur town, on the right hand side, enjoying a cold beer, with free tapas, sitting on comfy sofas, listening to Flamenco music. Back through the tunnel and we were welcomed with the same gloomy weather we had left, hours earlier, and despite already being blissfully happy, perversely- it made us feel even better.

Friday saw a revival of the Vallee Blanche plan. A trip to the hectic Midi ticket office (now relocated to the right of the main building in a portacabin, use the right-hand door) at 8am, and the earliest reservation on offer was either in 5mins (my companions for the day were still in bed) or 10.25. This was a little late as one of the party had to be at work back in Chamonix at 3pm. Unfortunately the bins were running a little behind schedule and we didn't actually get on the cable car until well after 11am and it was nearly mid-day before we were putting on our skis and boards at the bottom of the arête.

To his great credit the Ski Ambassador on duty collecting the reservation numbers was totally incorruptible, not wavering from strict allocation of places based on reservation number. Despite intense pressure from, pretty girls faking tears, woman claiming possible missed flights, or pleding men in red/green uniforms, he stood his ground, and still managed to be pleasant with it.

The conditions on the Vallee Blanche were good. The sun was shining and except at the very top the wind was light, best of all the snow was fresh and soft. Unfortunately we weren't able to hang around and enjoy it that much, but I am happy to say that we caught the 13.50 train at Montenvers, and my companion was on time for work. If you want to do the Vallee Blanche then I strongly advise the use of a guide.

The avalanche risk according to Meteo France is split. Below 3000m the risk is 2, moderate, at higher altitudes it rises to 3, considerable. For Saturday the higher risk will apply above 2500m. The forecast is for another fine day on Saturday, with possible snow on Sunday and the Foehn wind expected on Tuesday, with further disturbances into next week.

Check out what to do around town once the lifts have closed with our latest Apres Ski Report - a weekly round up of what's hot and where to party in Chamonix!