Skip to main content
SeeChamonix

Sunshine in Chamonix over the weekend before the return of the snowfalls

From beginners to ski tourers, we've been enjoying the sun and now we're back to heavy snow

featured in Snow report Author Graham Pinkerton, Chamonix Reporter Updated

Chamonix is known worldwide as the capital of extreme skiing but it's not all about the steep 'n' deep. For skiers taking their first tentative steps it's also a surprisingly good choice. Alongside the stunning scenery and a real town to explore whilst your muscles recover from learning the difference between "pizza" and "french fries" the valley has a number of dedicated beginner areas, and this week we've visited several of them.

Right in the centre of town there are the Savoy and Planards slopes. The easy green runs of the Savoy slope, next to the Club Med Hotel and Brevent cable car, are the scene of many a first time stepping into skis. Good artificial snowmaking makes this a reliable venue but right now there's no shortage of natural snow so there's a huge pisted area meaning plenty of space for everyone.

On the other side of Chamonix, near the Montenvers tramway, is the largest of the beginner areas: Planards. In addition to several drag lifts, there's a short chairlift accessing a blue and red run to keep fast progressors busy. Like the Savoy slopes, Planards has lots of snow cannons for low snow years and, like Savoy, there's no need for that right now with good cover from top to bottom. Planards also makes a great half day choice for folks arriving in town during the day and wanting a few quick turns to get their ski legs back for the first full day of the holiday.

Sunshine in Chamonix over the weekend before the return of the snowfalls

There are several other areas further along the Chamonix valley too. Les Chosalets at the entrance of Argentiere is a quiet little area that never gets too busy and was very pleasant in the afternoon sun at the weekend. Two drag lifts access an easy and a slightly harder green with a vista of the Aiguilles Rouges.

For stunning views on a sunny day, it's hard to beat La Vormaine, situated in the village of Le Tour. Being higher than the other dedicated beginner areas, the snow is usually of a higher quality but, at the same time, it's a little more exposed to bad weather. That wasn't a problem this weekend where the sun was shining and the Tour Glacier above was looking particularly fine.

Over the Col des Montets, the Poya area is often overlooked but makes a good change of scenery for anyone who's already taken learner friends to the other areas. Poya is the only beginner area to feature a black run. Whilst it probably wouldn't get a red rating at Grand Montets, it's still a good challenge for those up to it.

Sunshine in Chamonix over the weekend before the return of the snowfalls

All these areas are included in the normal Chamonix lift passes. However, as an added bonus, you can buy day or part day passes for the individual areas at far lower prices than even the Chamonix Le Pass. Also, as they are all at a lower altitude, they escape the worst of the weather and usually manage to stay open when everywhere else in the valley is shut down.

Sunshine in Chamonix over the weekend before the return of the snowfalls

At the other end of the scale, a few days of settled weather and a stabilized snowpack has meant it's touring time for many of Chamonix's skiers. With the Grand Montets top lift closed, lots of the ski touring traffic has instead headed to the Aiguilles Rouges. This has meant big queues for Flegere cable car in the morning, but the crowds have quickly dispersed once up the hill with most of the common tours getting skied over the weekend.

Sunshine in Chamonix over the weekend before the return of the snowfalls

Even with so many skiers, it's a big area and with a little poking about there were plenty fresh turns to be had. On Monday, we found great snow on a line near the classic Glacier Mort descent, though not before having to battle through the bitterly cold wind on the way to the summit. The exit from the Berard Valley is in excellent condition just now. In addition to the usual exit track, another line has been put in on the left flank of the stream leaving the valley which is a little further away from the avalanche paths and is the better choice just now. The lower part of the exit track to Buet could be described as a little icy, though I'd prefer to say running fast. There is one short awkward section where many skiers might prefer to take their skis off and walk for 10 metres but, otherwise, the return to either the train or a demi at the cafe is quick and good going.

Sunshine in Chamonix over the weekend before the return of the snowfalls

All will change now as, once again, a storm rolls into the valley with lots of snowfall and disruptive winds over the next few days. Check last week's report for ideas of where to ski in a storm. Further ahead, it's a very similar picture to previous reports... if only there was a word in French for 'deja vu'! Following a week of snowfalls through to Monday or Tuesday, and possibly some very cold temperatures, there might be a brief respite with some sunshine and a little warmer, before maybe going back to unsettled weather around the weekend. But then again, maybe not.

Ski safely off-piste

Exploring beyond the ski resort boundaries is an amazing experience for anyone who's physically fit and has mastered the pistes well enough. There are, however, risks associated with venturing outside the safety of the marked/patrolled ski area, including awareness of your actions on those below you on the slopes. Mountain guides are professionally qualified and have extensive knowledge of the local terrain to provide you with the safest and most enjoyable possible experience in the mountains; as a visitor here we highly recommend you hire one. Many ski schools, and also mountain guides, provide instruction in off-piste skiing, avalanche safety and mountaineering techniques. Make your time in the mountains unforgettable for the right reasons, ski safe!

Location

Map of the surrounding area