Chamonix Apres Ski Report: 21st January 2010
I've had friends out this week which of course means that the waistline has taken a beating as well as the liver! Usually when friends come to visit, and especially if they have spent time living in Cham themselves, there are certain “favourites” that must be ticked off the list during their stay. It's exactly the same for me when I return to the UK: a curry (tick), fish & chips (tick), a Subway sandwich (I know, but I like them!! Tick) and a cream tea (tick)! This week our list has consisted of a Casa Valerio pizza (an essential for every visitor), a fondue and a glass of wine at the Lapin (which always turns into at least 2 bottles and a snack…).
If you're not familiar with the Lapin Agile, it is a cosy little wine bar located a stones throw from McDonald's, just next door to the whistling marmotte shop. Run by a lovely Italian couple, the Lapin has an extensive list of delicious wines from around the world and serves a variety of light meals and snacks such as soups, salads, piadina's and tempting desserts and coffees. From 6-9pm every evening, they also offer a range of free aperitif style snacks and treats for all customers having a drink and as well as wine, they have a number of bottled and on tap beers. Particular favourites to try are the Grand Lapin (a large plate of assorted meats and cheeses, and Affogato coffee (double shot of espresso with a ball of pistachio ice cream in it) and the Lapin hot chocolate (so rich and thick you can almost stand your spoon up in it!)
Living in the Haute Savoie region of France, when it comes to getting a good fondue in Chamonix, there are no shortage of restaurants to try. Particular favourites of ours though are La Caleche (nr. Post Office, worth popping in for the interior décor alone – it's like a Savoie museum inside!), the Bergerie (ave. Michel Croz), Bistrot des Sports (opp. Super U, great value) and Boccalatte (ave. Aiguille du Midi). We ate at Boccalatte this week as it is also one of the few restaurants in town that will serve fondue, raclette and other Savoie favourites for one person instead of the obligatory two. It's the perfect solution for differing tastes as they have a range of different fondues available – straight cheese, with herbs, with cepes (a type of mushroom – yummy…), side of potatoes, side of cured meat…..all wishes can be catered for with their individual fondue option. Ranging in price from €13 - €19 per person it's also very good value but their menu isn't exclusively cheesy. They have a range of pizzas, pastas and steaks as well as various plats du jour and if they are in season, I highly recommend the moules frites – best in town!
Anyway, with all this eating and drinking this week, I've been trying to combat the expanding waistline with as much time on the hill as possible; conditions are fantastic at the moment and with some beautiful sunny weather and a bit of fresh snow to boot, it's been a pretty perfect week all in all. However, if you're coming to Chamonix and not planning to ski (and many people do), then maybe you could be tempted to try a bit of cross country skiing instead. I've just bought myself some cross country kit this year as it's a great activity to do if you have a spare hour or so, or if the weather on the hill is bad, then cross country skiing through the forests is a lovely alternative for a bit of fresh air. The Chamonix valley has a decent network of trails along its length and you can pick up a map of all the areas from the tourist office or from one of the “Foyer du Fond” offices at the start of the trails. Some of the trails are free to use but for others you'll need to buy a lift ticket before setting off which costs €6.90 per day and is discounted with your Guest Card or Residents Card. My first attempt at the “classic” style this week was vaguely reminiscent of Bambi on ice, but I did eventually get into my stride and managed 3 laps of the Bois du Bouchet trail in Cham before collapsing in a heap. It's surprisingly energetic but really good fun and we've got more info on cross country skiing in Chamonix here >>
Anyway, coming up this week, there are two bands that I'm very excited about seeing. Firstly, Albenaza are playing in the Jekyll on Tuesday 26th – I've never seen these guys before but they have played a number of gigs in and around the 3 Valleys and Southern Alps over the last couple of years and our après ski reporters in those resorts absolutely raved about them. They play a cool mix of indie, rock and rap and are a seriously talented trio. 9pm at the Jekyll on Tuesday – don't miss them!
Secondly, Chamonet favourites the Blind Poets are back in town all week, starting tonight at the Savoy Bar in Argentiere. Many of you will recognise the lead singer, Rangan, who has spent many a season in Cham playing both with the band or doing solo sets. Well unfortunately (for us) their lives have moved on and we are now only treated to Blind Poet gigs at certain times of the season when the boys get together again for a few days hols in Cham. Well you can see them this week during après at the Savoy Bar – 21st, 24th, 26th, 27th and 29th Jan and the Saturday 23rd and 30th at après at Chambre 9.
This is going to be a GREAT week – hope you've coming out to join in some of the fun! :O)
Don't forget to keep an eye on the What's On Calendar for a full list of events over the winter season. You can also find full Bar and Restaurant listings in the Dining and Going Out section of the site.
