Chamonix Apres Ski Report: 21st December 2011

I've also been getting back into cross country skiing, or "ski de fond", this week. It is a great option for when the lifts are closed; a day pass costs around 7€, the kit is cheap to hire and it is easy to learn. It also gives you the opportunity to drink more vin chaud. Hotel Arveyron, just beside the cross country track in Les Praz, is a good stop-off, with white china jugs of steaming mulled wine served on the terrace. From here you have a beautiful view of the mountains and Mont Blanc. If you feel the need for another warmer-upper on the return loop I would recommend Le Robinson in the Bois du Bouchet; a charming old chalet tucked away in the woods with a lovely cosy ambience. Both open for the winter this Friday and are easily accessable on foot if you don't fancy trying out the skinny skis. Just follow the walking trail alongside the ski track and you'll find them as well as enjoying a beautiful stroll in the woods.

Due to the wonders of France Telecom I have been without internet for a couple of weeks and have been trawling the streets of Chamonix with my bungalow-sized laptop in search of WiFi. My current favourite place for this is Elevation, near to the train station; cosy and quiet enough that you can tuck yourself into a corner and get on with some work (...OK, Facebook) but busy enough that there is a bit of background noise and you'll always bump into someone you know in there for when you need a coffee break. They also serve food all day, including breakfast and bar snacks.

It is still teeming with snow here in Chamonix and town is looking beautiful with Christmas trees and lights on every street; Christmas is just round the corner and there are plenty of festivities lined up, both for party animals and for families. The big event is obviously the arrival of the man himself, who pops into Chamonix shortly before the big night to check that we are all behaving ourselves. Santa and his parade will be passing through Chamonix town on Friday 23rd at 5pm, finishing in front of the Tourist Office with music and entertainment for all the family. The magic of Christmas also allows him to be in Argentiere at the same time, where there will be a torchlit procession from Les Chosalets to Argentiere town hall with sweets, hot chocolate and the chance to see Santa.

You can also take the kids to meet Santa every afternoon at the Mer de Glace until the 23rd December. Gather at Montenvers (behind the main train station) at 2pm, with trains leaving at 2:30pm. Not just any trains, they are traditional rack-and-pinion railway carriages that have been in use for over 100 years, ferrying tourists through the ages to admire the famous glacier. The journey takes about half an hour, whereupon you will be met at the top with entertainment and and a chance to see Santa's grotto. The train will take you back down to Chamonix at 5pm, after snacks and drinks. Tickets are free for children under 2 years, 10€ for 2-10 year olds, and 26€ for those aged 11 and above (including accompanying adults). You can book online here

There will be loads of bands and DJs playing over the festive season, too many to mention here but if you take a stroll around town you won't be able to help but find somewhere lively to celebrate, you can check out our What's On Calendar for a few ideas. One thing worth mentioning is that the French tend to mark Christmas the night before, with a big meal on Christmas Eve. Many restaurants are offering special menus that night with traditional French Christmas fayre such as oysters, fois gras, duck and, of course, plenty of champagne. Be sure to book ahead to be guaranteed a table, click here for contact details of Chamonix restaurants. A number of bars such as Le Jekyll, Le Vert and Chambre Neuf will be offering a more British-style Christmas turkey dinner on the 25th - again, book ahead to reserve a table. You can find contact details here

Those of you who want to celebrate early can get your pre-Christmas party pants on at South Bar in Chamonix Sud on Friday. Although having been open already for about a week, they are having their official "launch party" with apres-ski music from Baltha & Diego, followed by tunes from DJ Sugarleg - guaranteed to get you dancing. Doors open for apres-ski 2-4-1 drinks at 4pm with the music kicking off from 5pm until 2am. Get yourself down there for a great start to the Christmas weekend.

You can carry on the party at Le Podium (by the ice rink) as Winter Sessions host their Christmas party featuring non other than the Lazy Habits Soundsystem with their classic blend of hip hop and jazz infused beats, plus local favourites Corin Martin, Joe Volpeliere and Tony Chopin who will be pushing out the deep tech house. Winter Sessions put on some legendary parties last winter, so make sure you check them out. Doors open 11pm-4am and tickets are 12€ in advance and 15€ on the door, but "Like" them on Facebook and you could win free entry!

Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas and I'll be back next week just in time to let you know what is happening for New Year's Eve.

Click here for details of all Chamonix bars, cafes and clubs