Chamonix Activity Report: 16th Aug 2011

This week it's the Fete des Guides, an annual display of light, music and acrobatic displays. It runs over four days all over the valley in memory of the guides who lost their lives in the mountains. It's an outstanding event; be sure to join in the festivities if you are around this week.

With the rain over the last month or so the opportunity to climb has been limited. Now, with the weather much improved, it is time to take advantage of the many opportunities in the valley. There really is something for every level of climber on every imaginable type of rock. Sometimes it can be hard to choose exactly what to do on any given day. Given the time of year the popular routes can be very busy and finding a suitable climb for your level can be a bit tricky. Getting hold of a Chamonix crag climb book is a really good idea. They have some great descriptions of most routes in the valley and will give you a good idea of the level required. Picking a wall that is a little walk up, or a bit out of town is always a great idea to get away from the crowds and hiring the services of a local guide will be the best choice.

When it's busy, as it is at the moment, I like to either head a little higher up or do a multi pitch somewhere tranquil. If you are just getting in to multi pitching a great and pretty chilled spot is in Vallorcine. The wall is easily accessible by train from Chamonix centre or, indeed, anywhere in the valley. You can either jump off the train at Le Buet or in Vallorcine, then take the short walk following signs towards the climbing wall. Head slightly downhill and towards Vallorcine from Le Buet along the footpath which runs alongside the train line. Or slightly up hill and towards Le Buet from Vallorcine crossing the train line and entering the trail there.

Once at the wall there are a few different options; you have a fairly easy section to the far left, an intermediate to the far right and a more advanced central section with a great bit of Elvis leg twitching slab at the top. You might find that the wall will be pretty busy at the bottom but that should mostly be people doing the lower single pitches and, once up on the second pitch, you will find it's much more calm. We opted for the Elvis leg twitching slab at the top which is nigh on vertical with lots of small holds and large gaps between bolts. It is quite a challenge and got our muscles working a treat!

We started the climb with a level 5c at the bottom of the wall. This turns in to a short 4b section and towards the start of the Elvis 6b pitch. There is a large, chilled area for a belay point where you can hang out if you are in a group, enjoy the view and give advice to your mate stuck on a tricky move half way up the wall, and, of course, actually belay! There are some particularly tricky sections at the start of the climb which can put you off entirely, however, once you're on, you're on and you will make it to the top!

After our climb we abseiled back down and headed back to the train station in Vallorcine just as an afternoon storm came in. We sat in the railway café and had a couple of beers while we waited for our train home and for the short shower to pass.