Chamonix Activity Report: 22nd October 2007
As predicted, the temperature has dropped in the last week….really dropped! You can see from this picture of the Place Mont Blanc valley map that the temperature was a decidedly chilly -3 at 9am this morning. With a high of around 8 degrees and overnight lows of -7, the ground is now regularly covered in a thick layer of frost that doesn't melt until the sun peeks over the mountains at about 11am. Once it starts to get really cold here, it always amazes me how many drivers appear completely at ease driving at 70kmh, peering through a 6 inch square of cleared windscreen in an otherwise completely frosted car. I can only think that it is driving skill that is taught in France along with overtaking on blind bends, manoeuvring with no indication whatsoever and bump touch parking!
Anyway, it may be cold but it's still been beautifully sunny and we were enticed out walking at the weekend to make the most of the deserted trails. As the lifts are all now closed with the exception of the Aiguille du Midi, it's all about leg power if you want to head to the sunny upper slopes above the valley. We drove up to the Col des Montets on Saturday, with the intention of climbing up to Lac Blanc (above Flegere) via the ladders for one last visit before it freezes over for the winter. Parking at Tre-le-Champ, it's signposted as taking about 2hrs 45 minutes to get to the lake, an 800m vertical gain. To begin with, the trail steadily switches back and forth up through the forest before straightening out as it clings to the base of the cliffs above Argentiere. We started off around11am and the ground was pretty solid and even had large patches of ice in places. Once you're out of the woods, the views over Le Tour, Grands Montets, Mer de Glace and the whole Mont Blanc range are truly spectacular, but it becomes a bit rockier underfoot so you have to keep an eye on where you're walking and make plenty photo stops instead.
Before embarking on this particular trail you should know that it comes with a bit of a warning. After about an hour, you have to negotiate a series of near vertical metal ladders that scale the cliff face, before rejoining the walking trail to the lake. It is definitely not a walk for vertigo sufferers as the ladders are high and have narrow rocky shelves and bridges in between. Although the trickier sections are equipped with hand rails in the rock, there are still sheer drop offs that can make even the most surefooted hiker wobble in places. Having said that, it's a bit of an adventure this route and it makes it more interesting that doing an “in and out” via the Grand Balcon Sud from the Col des Montets.
It was only once we'd arrived at the top of the ladder section that we realised just how much the wind had picked up. Well that's actually putting it quite mildly, as in fact we were greeted by what felt like 80kmh, bitingly cold north easterly gale. At 5ft 11, I don't often find myself buffeted about too much by the wind, but on the stretch up to the Lac des Chesereys (just below Lac Blanc) I was practically on all fours at times in an effort not to get blown off the mountainside! Every item of clothing I had with me was rapidly layered on at the first sheltered spot, but even then the wind was so cold and strong that I was still suffering an “ice cream headache” through a woolly hat and a gore-tex hood! Beautiful as they are, I'm afraid it was at this point that all intention of continuing up to the lakes evaporated as the wind only appeared to be getting stronger the higher we went. Instead we opted to leg it back down to the car at the first signposted opportunity – the Grand Balcon Sud – where we half ran, half flew for an hour and a half back down to the parking. I don't particularly like descending on this trail as it's really hard on the knees and I find it a bit relentless. It was also completely baltic on Saturday but was definitely the more attractive option over retracing our steps on the ladders in the gale! Obviously I was hoping to have some snaps of these beautiful alpine lakes for you today but I'm afraid frozen fingers overruled my sense of duty to the job.
Frozen solid (not to mention hungry – there was no stopping for a picnic in that wind!!) we called in at the Office Bar in Argentiere in the hope of regaining some sensation in our extremities. Should you find yourself similarly chilled in the winter after skiing, then I can highly recommend their house special hot chocolate, laced with a generous splash of Kaluha and Baileys – instantaneous rosy cheeks and warm fingers! Now that the Rusticana and the Stone Bar have closed for interseason, the Office Bar is definitely the place to head in Argentiere for some evening entertainment (or après). Open until 1am, they also serve food throughout the day and show all the major sporting events on their big plasma screen. During the Rugby World Cup they've seemingly had some big crowds in for the matches, despite their rather cheeky ad in the window for last Friday's Argentina match – Argentina vs Losers!!
Sorry that I haven't been able to enlighten you further on the residents lift pass prices as yet; the lengthy debate between the lift companies in Les Houches seems to have had a significant knock on effect for the Compagnie du Mont Blanc and they are still to release the details of this year's offer. The closing date for pre-season purchases isn't until November 25th though, so still plenty time to get those cheap lift passes sorted. I'll hopefully have more on the subject to follow shortly. Have a good week!
- popular avalanche training sessions based in French Alps as well as translation of current avalanche conditions
PisteHors.com - Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding News in English for the French Alps. Excellent coverage of avalanche safety and advice
Additional snow and weather information provided, with thanks, by meteo.chamonix.com and the Tourist Office
